Thursday, May 20, 2010

In preparing a flower bed, what ingredients do i need for the bed to be a success?

I need to know what to add to my already existing flower beds. The soil in my beds are lacking something. The soil is from the sugar mill, sugar house soil. Plants will grow in this soil, but they do not thrive. Do i need to add peat moss, fertilizer, etc.?

In preparing a flower bed, what ingredients do i need for the bed to be a success?
I'd suggest some compost, well mixed in. Also, some super phosphates or 15-30-15 fertilizer at planting time.





Also, listen to or contact Ralph Snodsmith (a real person). See below.
Reply:Have a sample of your soil tested. Our local greenhouse will test soils and tell them what you want to grow and they will be able to tell you what it's lacking.


We do this every year for our garden soil.
Reply:Any garden center will have a soil test kit. Buy one and follow the directions. I would also buy some bags of top soil and add some peat moss for the winter.
Reply:first get a soil test . then go from there . is the soil heavy light , overly damp ? hard soft ,. now all that being said amend the heck out of it with compost ! you add enough compost and you can grow anything ,lol, ok i admit it i am a compostaholic. but the truth is compost is the magical ingredient to the garden .


the soil test will tell you if your soil is in need of sweetening up or not. all else fails a simple ph tester will go a long ways . they are very inexpensive too


PLEASE NOTE : someone said you could get compost from cows and such ? manure is not compost ! it turns into compost if mixed with green plants and hay . but do not mix up the 2 compost and manure ,even composted manure are not the same , manure can burn tender plants . i love manure but it must be used wisly , best to place it in the soil at the end of the growing season .


pete
Reply:At this time you can add any organic matter like peat, compost, manure, etc. It all helps to make the soil better able to retain water and also adds nutrients. If it hasn't been done in 2 or more years you cans also add lime.





Don't add fertilizer until you are ready to actually plant your bed.
Reply:I used Miracle Grow for flowers. I used every third watering until the flowers really started growing. Then I used it every other week, once a week. I never follow the directions on the container. I just mix one heaping tablespoon to a large watering can for about 6-8 plants. You will want to make sure your plants can use this type of fertilizer. You can also add peat moss. Another tip I can offer is keep the bed weeded. This gives the plants room to grow. Also, make sure to aerate your soil by lightly turning it either with a garden spade or a hoe. Be careful not to upset the roots. Hope this helps a bit!
Reply:You definately should have a soil test done by your local extension office first before adding too much. Also, some plants do better in less fertile soils, so it is important to know what your plants need also. You can never go wrong by adding compost to your soil though. I top dress mine at least once a year with compost.
Reply:If your soil is from the sugar mill, it sounds like it may already have a good bit of organic material in it. A few things to consider: soil texture, nutrients, moisture, location (sun/shade).


First, test the texture of your soil. This will allow you to see if it is draining properly and if it needs more organic material. Soil with too much clay does not drain well, but on the other hand, soil with too much sand will drain too quickly. To test, scoop up a handful of moist soil, squeeze it into a ball. If you can break the ball with a light touch then you have good texture. If you cannot form a ball with the soil, it may be too sandy. If the ball seems sticky, gummy, etc., clay soil may be the problem. To solve either, you can add organic matter such as peat, compost, aged manure, etc.


Now, nutrients. Organic matter supplies nutrients in slow release form which is good for your plants. Chemical fertilizers can be used in slow release (some last up to 4 months) or instant feed form. It sounds like proper nutrients may be your problem. To know specifically which nutrients you are lacking, you should have a soil test done. Your local Co-Op, garden center etc. should provide this service.


Moisture, 1" of water a week is what I give my plants.


Location, make sure the plants you have selected are suited for the site you have them in (sunny site or shade). For instance, impatiens will not do as well in full sun as they will in shade.





Hope this helps!
Reply:a good mattress and boxspring...oh a flower bed - oops
Reply:Every Fall I would add compost. Either bought from a garden centre or from your own composter.Compost adds nutrients to soil,helps retain moisture. Do not put it close to the stems,as this could suffocate them.Adding a couple of inches of this should help a lot.
Reply:Compost is most likely the best solution. Peat moss will eventually break down into compost, but you can get compost for free from local farms - particularly if they have horses or cattle. Compost is generally ready right away - so you get a head-start. If that's not enough, consider other forms of fertilizers. Whether you use a light treatment of chemical fertilizer (not too much, it'll run off into groundwater) or other organic treatments is up to you. Some folks will say "don't use chemicals" but the problem is the runoff, not the chemicals. The organic fertilizers are based off the same runoff from farms that cause algae blooms in coastal waters. So start light and add gradually.





If you're growing vegetables or fruit, use compost in the fall/winter, but NOT in the spring, to avoid contamination. For flowers and shrubs, anytime is fine.





Also check the pH. You want it slightly acidic, (6.8, give or take) but not too much. If you have clay, consider gypsum too. It's a semi-natural way to break up heavy clay.





Good luck!
Reply:I use peat moss...

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